The ancient Egyptians and Romans adorned their garden with them and undoubtedly found shade beneath them from the blazing sun. Then we repeat the entire process on the other side. Position a large layout triangle along a two-by-two at the pergola's front edge. Tie markers along the string for the middle and back post positions on that side of the arbor. Dig six holes within the chalk lines with a posthole digger, making them slightly deeper than 3 feet.It’s the pergola of what I speak and I am heading to Orlando to help Bill and Francis Post build one. Stretch string to the back corner, ensuring that the angle at the front stake is 90 degrees. Building codes in this hurricane-prone area require that holes be at least 3-feet deep to keep the posts stable in high winds. Clamp temporary braces to stakes and posts to hold them vertical.
Now a pergola is an open air structure, a large arbor of sorts designed to provide shade, charm and style by allowing vines to climb its post and spread across the rafters. Pre-drill two holes through the side beams and posts for carriage bolts.
Now this is the perfect area for a pergola if I ever saw one. Stagger them so they are less likely to split the posts.
We line up stakes alongside each ribbon and drive them in. Determine where to sink the pergola's six support posts after checking for gas, water, or electric lines. The six-by-six posts must be aligned perfectly straight and parallel to each other. Carefully remove the stakes without disturbing the digging line for each posthole.
Okay, then move down to 96, which will be our rear corner post. We use a spacer board to create an equal distance between each rafter. Construct it according to building codes and make it stout enough to withstand hurricane winds! Center a bottomless bucket on each of the six stakes and sprinkle powdered chalk around the outside perimeter to mark a posthole digging line.
We've got that same champer on the edge here and that we have on our beams. RON HAZELTON: I'm going to hand this up to you. [SOUND CUT] Since Orlando is susceptible to hurricanes, we need to attach these rafters as securely as possible. I temporarily hold them in place with a screw, then hammer in hot dipped galvanized bracket nails. Make it large enough to accommodate lawn furniture or even a hot tub along with hanging flower baskets and climbing vines.
Now this is quick setting concrete and requires no mixing. [announcer] Ron Hazelton's House Calls is being brought to you by the Home Depot RON HAZELTON: Today I am in Orland helping Bill and Francis Post build a pergola… So far, we’ve laid out the dimensions, dug the post holes and set our posts. FRANCES: If I make a mistake with that, I'm in big trouble. RON HAZELTON: But you won't -- because you have mastered the drill. What I've done is, I've marked two holes up here on a diagonal. Well this is our rafter the first one we're going to put up guys. [BOTH SPEAK AT ONCE] RON HAZELTON: - this in, this -- set it right up on top of the beam there. RON HAZELTON: And then bring it out to me a little bit further this way. Dress up a plain corner of your backyard with a free-standing pergola that is visually appealing and offers a shaded sitting area as well.
Make it a reading area, a nice little way to get away. RON HAZELTON: Our first step is to determine where exactly to sink the pergola's six posts. Take it -- one more, maybe one more wrap and then just lay the string out this way. I want to stay right on the edge of your -- of your line. Chamfer the cross beams and position them on top of the side beams, equally-spaced from the pergola's front to its back.
RON HAZELTON: A little kind of cozy nook sort of eh? RON HAZELTON: And what about down the road, any other plans for it? They must be lined up perfectly straight and parallel to each other. Now what we've done for the front line or front edge of our pergola -use this piece of two by two. Now I'm going to take this oversized right triangle right here, put the base of it up against that two by two, just like that. Attach them with metal hurricane ties held temporarily with a screw until you hammer in hot-dipped galvanized bracket nails.
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I'm going to use this as sort of a marking gauge. [BOTH SPEAK AT ONCE] RON HAZELTON: Now this is a post level right here. [SOUND CUT] And this will let us know that the post is vertical or plumb in both this plane and this plane without our having to hold a level up there, all right. RON HAZELTON: I clamped some temporary braces onto the post for added support, as we make the incremental adjustments necessary to reach the perfectly vertical state known as plumb. Now we're plumb or vertical in both directions. We drive a couple of screws through predrilled shank holes to temporarily attach our first beam, then the second beam to the post. You know, what, I got a hook here, I'm going to hang it right here. You know, this hasn't quite turned out that way. RON HAZELTON: You guys put me to quite a bit of hard work.